How to Route Set | Route Setting 101

How to Route Set with Sam Rothstein

Kinetik Climbing athlete Sam Rothstein is a head coach and route setter at Whetstone Climbing. Many people want to learn how to route set so in today’s video Sam will walk us through a few basics to consider during a route setting session. The route setters are an essential piece of the climbing gym puzzle.

Their creativity and passion allows everyone who visits these climbing gyms and have opportunity to get a sense of what it feels like to climb outside. They use their outdoor experience to provide a fun and interactive experience in the climbing gym for everyone to enjoy. At times the boulders or sport routes could feel similar to climbs we would encounter in nature, but other times they can create movements that we might never experience outdoors. How to route set depends on each persons style and skill set. This is why the route setter is such a critical person in any climbing gym environment. Next time you go to the gym make sure to thank your route setting team.

 

 

We chatted with Sam about what inspired him to become a route setter and what advice he would have for someone interested in becoming a setter in the future. Read below to see what he said.

“I’ve always been interested in route setting but never got the “in” until 2015. I was working the desk at Miramont and they needed someone for two days a week. After I got hired there, I started working at Wooden Mountain where I’m currently the Head Setter. My setting inspiration comes from trying to make the new set better than the one we just stripped. Always trying to improve my craft. Staying creative and bringing in new ideas is one of the hardest parts of being a setter. I’m always getting inspiration from the setters I work with. I also use Instagram to look at videos of gym climbs all around the world. Being a setter definitely helps me with route reading. However when I can’t figure out the beta from the ground that’s usually an indicator of a quality climb. My advice for someone trying to get started in the setting industry to get hired at a gym first. Climbing gyms will hire from the inside whenever possible. If you’re motivated there’s room to grow in the industry! I started out as a youth coach and wall monitor then worked my way up! In my opinion, the most important quality of a setter is working well in a group environment. Being able to give and receive feedback effectively is critical to any effective setting program” – Sam Rothstein.

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